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Microdermabrasion: What Does It Do and How Does It Do It?

What does it do?

After nearly a year’s experience performing microdermabrasion (mda), John M. Yarborough, MD presented his clinical insights to colleagues attending the 1999 Annual Clinical and Scientific Meeting of the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery on May 19. Dr. Yarborough, a renowned dermatologic surgeon in private practice in New Orleans, LA, is credited with promulgating dermabrasion treatment since the 1970’s. Dr. Yarborough discussed the effectiveness with reference to the following 6 indications:

1. Greatly enhances poor, dull skin texture by gently resurfacing the superficial skin layers.
2. Softens and modifies fine “expression” lines typically seen on the forehead and around the mouth.
3. Polishes and reduces fine, crepey lines on the cheeks generally caused by aging and sun damage.
4. Smoothes pigment changes or skin discoloration.
5. Contracts enlarged pores; exfoliates and suctions out clogged pores in case of acne.
6. Polishes and smoothes out the margins of acne and burn scars; usually requires 10 initial treatment visits.

According to Dr. Yarborough, “patient satisfaction with (mda) has been consistently and overwhelmingly positive. Patients really enjoy the treatment and are pleased with the results.” He concluded that the technique is especially beneficial for darker skin types and as an adjunctive therapy to accelerate or maintain other skin renewal modalities, like laser therapy or Retin-A therapy. (1)

Presenting on March 20, 1999 at the American Academy of Dermatology’s 57th Annual Meeting in New Orleans, dermatologist Mark Rubin, MD, Associate Clinical Professor, Division of Dermatology, University of California, San Diego, discussed the benefits of (mda) as the latest treatment option for skin resurfacing. The procedure treats common skin conditions such as rough skin texture, uneven pigmentation, acne, sun damage, fine wrinkles and acne scars. “What we’re accomplishing with (mda) is not only removing some of the damaged skin, but stimulating new cell growth as well. Research has shown that repetitive, superficial abrasions can create significant new cell growth. Microdermabrasion takes advantage of this response by allowing patients to gradually resurface their skin without “downtime” and risk of more aggressive procedures.”(2) Dr. Rubin has also been quoted to say that the (mda) process can be anything from the most superficial exfoliation to a wound that can equal an erbium laser treatment.

Ronald L. Moy, M.D., Dermatologist and Editor of Dermatologic Surgery, believes that the results seen from a series of (mda) treatments could possibly be able to postpone laser resurfacing, “…although it does not remove the deeper wrinkles, it does ameliorate fine lines and blotchiness, going one step beyond AHA’s.” (3)

In the June 1999 issue of Self Magazine, Steven B. Hopping, M.D. of The Center for Cosmetic Surgery in Washington, DC says revving up a dull complexion is the main reason patients seek (mda), but it’s also used to treat discoloration, roughness and fine lines. The procedure even helps diminish some acne scars, stretch marks and large pores. Unlike glycolic acid, (mda) is proven safe for Asian, Hispanic and African American skin, all of which are prone to pigment irregularities. Microdermabrasion allows doctors to go deeper as warranted, possibly making chemical peels, laser resurfacing, or dermabrasion less necessary.

According to a published interview with Maria Morris, a medically trained clinical aesthetician, as well as the Director and Owner of the Dallas Center of Clinical Aesthetics, who has performed well over 5,000 (mda) treatments: Microdermabrasion is the perfect tool to address most skin care concerns. It corrects and rejuvenates the skin. We are able to treat fine lines and wrinkles, photo-damaged skin, acne, pigmentation and scarring. It’s perfect for those clients who need rejuvenation of the face, neck and chest from sun exposure damage. Precancerous lesions can be safely peeled away. Also, laser resurfacing patients use (mda) to fade out the line of demarcation, and to rejuvenate the neck and chest tissue not treated by the laser. It is also used for improving the appearance of scars from trauma, acne or surgery. As we increase the collagen production with regular treatments, we are really plumping the skin and creating more permanent lasting change.

How does it do it?

At a recent presentation on June 29, 1999 entitled, Skin Rejuvenation by Lasers and Other Modalities, Robert Joseph, M.D., founder of the Danville Laser and Skin Surgery Center, in Danville, Kentucky, presented that (mda) appears to stimulate the growth of new collagen. This is accomplished by the trauma caused from the aluminum oxide crystals as well as the increased blood circulation resulting from the suction of the handpiece. “This suction stimulates the papillary and reticular dermis blood flow, which activates fibroblast activity resulting in more connective tissue growth, namely, elastin and collagen.” Dr. Joseph added that “(mda), when used in conjunction with newer chemical therapies, improves their results by double.” I have found in my practice that while I still use chemical peels a great deal, the number of (mda) treatments has exploded, while the number of chemical peels have reduced.

Dr. Mark Rubin (referenced above), explained that (mda) is a technique that involves stripping off very thin, superficial layers of the skin using machines that employ airflow from a vacuum-like device and sterile “sand” that consists of aluminum oxide. By varying the air flow and sand, (mda) can create very superficial wounds – 10 microns with one pass of the handpiece across the surface of the skin or deeper wounds of over 100 microns with multiple passes of the handpiece.

Other methods of skin resurfacing, and their depth of treatment include
Er: YAG laser 25 to 30 microns per pass
Chemical Peel with 10-25% TCA (superficial wound to papillary dermis)
Chemical Peel with 35% TCA 75 microns (med. depth wound to upper reticular dermis)
Chemical Peel with 50% Phenol 100 microns
Chemical Peel, Bakers formula (deep peel, wound to mid reticular dermis)
CO2 Laser Dermabrasion 100 to 150 microns per pass
Mechanical Dermabrasion 350 microns


Evidence of microdermabrasion’s effectiveness is reflected in the support it has received from unlikely sources, namely, chemical peel manufacturers. Obagi and Bio-Medic have both developed protocols that combine their products with microdermabrasion. These types of companies stand to loose the most from microdermabrasion, and if this treatment was effective, they would have been the first to point that out. Instead, from a corporate level, they have embraced microdermabrasion. It is generally accepted that chemical peels and microdermabrasion both have a place in skin rejuvenation.

Since it’s introduction in the United States, with FDA approval in December of 1996, (and use in Europe since 1986) microdermabrasion has received an uncommon and very positive reception. It’s effects are impressive and undeniable. This novel, yet simple technique, conforms with well known and proven skin rejuvenating and resurfacing principles. These facts lend themselves to predict that microdermabrasion has an integral role in skin care now and in the future.


1) American Society For Dermatologic Surgery, News Release, May 19, 1999.
http://www.asds-net.org/anupdate.htm
2) American Academy of Dermatology, Press Release, March 20, 1999.
http://www.aad.org/PressReleases/dermpeel.htm
3) Microdermabrasion, Laura Root, Les Nouvelles Esthetiques, p. 42-52 April, 1999.