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RISE OF CLINICAL ESTHETICS

Rise Of Clinical Esthetics
BY DAVID SUZUKI
SKIN INC, JULY 04, PAGES 68-72

NEARLy UNHEARD of only a few years ago, medical spas have become an increasingly popular segment of the spa community These hybrid clinics that combine a luxury spa atmosphere with the precise expertise of a physician's office have boasted a 133% growth rate over the past five years, according to the International Spa Association (ISPA).

Make room for the medical spa
The name medical spa implies that a medical practitioner is on staff; however this is not always the case, In fact, it is becoming more and more apparent that the medical spa industry is dominated more by estheticians than medical practitioners; This should not come as any surprise as statistics indicate a 471% increase in technology- driven non-invasive cosmetic procedures opposed to an 87% increase in invasive procedures since 1997, according to the American Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons (ASAPS) .
The medical spa really is the home of the well-educated clinical esthetician who can treat and care for the skin, as well as combat the effects of aging and photo damage with a vast array of available non- invasive technology. Although it is useful to have a medical practitioner available on staff to perform minimally invasive procedures such as injectable fillers, collagen and restyling, this usually can be supplemented with a synergetic reciprocal relationship with a nearby physician. Although there are many clients who require more invasive procedures, the outstanding results that can be achieved with non- invasive alternatives are nothing less than substantial. Furthermore, the fact can't be overlooked that more than 30% of individuals considering invasive procedures decide against it due to fear of surgery, and a whopping 60% opt against it due to the expense involved, according to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons {ASPS).

As men always are a big topic of market potential in today's esthetic world, it is important to note that men made up almost 29% of total spa-goers during 2003, according to the ISPA 2003 Spa-Goer Study, and received 21% of facial cosmetic procedures, according to the American Academy of Facial Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery (AAFPRS). Men also are more likely to try device-driven services than standard services.

Aging skin
Expressions and facial gestures leave their history on the face as permanently contracted muscles, typically in the forehead and mouth area. Conversely, the remaining muscles in the face are used infrequently, leaving them prone to atrophy, as well as elongated and unbalanced muscles. Photo damage usually is most apparent in aged and thickened skin that feels rough in texture. Visible signs of aging ,begin with the loss of elasticity in the skin as well as the underlying collagen, usually first apparent in the eye area.

Collagen. Collagen is the compound that gives skin a more supple, firm and full appearance, thus the popularity of bovine collagen and similar kinds of injections. A less invasive method of supplementing depleting collagen levels can be achieved through specific iontophoresis , the process of utilizing microcurrent, or low level electrical impulses to penetrate bovine collagen using electrical current as a vehicle. Only bovine collagen binds with human collagen, giving the most effective and long-lasting results.

Elastin. Elastin is relative to the stretchability or tonicity of the skin. In a child, high levels of elastin allow skin
to snap back nearly instantly from a pinch to the cheek. The same pinch to a 40 year old adult literally could take ten times the amount of time to regain its initial form, much like a very worn sock, completely void of elastic material. Products rich in bovine elastin are useful and can have some positive effects, however the most profound effects and restoration of elastin only can be achieved through the body's natural production of elastin. This is why you don't hear of injecting elastin of similar synthetic products.

Non-invasive alternatives
Boosting natural collagen and elastin production is one area where non-invasive procedures such as light therapy, microcurrent and microdermabrasion have been proven to be more effective than available invasive alternatives. This new wave of efficacious non- invasive technology has been touted to contain the best alternatives to invasive procedures and, in most cases, can be used by estheticians without the supervision of a physician.

Light therapy. Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) and Light Emitting Diode (LED) light therapies have been known to increase the production of natural collagen as well as the level of blood circulation Light therapy comes in many different shapes and sizes, and primarily is based on the concept of multiple wavelengths of light energy being sent through the skin creating heat in the dermis that stimulates cellular activity and goes on to form collagen

Light therapy generally is performed in a series of four to eight treatments and ranges in price from $75-200 for 45- minute full facial treatments Specialty treatments can be incorporated in as little as 10-20 minutes and should be prorated accordingly Results from light therapy typically are delayed 60-180 days since it takes time for collagen to form and accumulate. With this in mind, it definitely is suggested that light therapy be combined with other modality treatments such as microdermabrasion or microcurrent that have a tendency to give immediate visual and psychological gratification.

Microcurrent. Microcurrent,a low-level of electrical current, recently was featured on Oprah for its dramatic anti-aging benefits. Studies at the University of Washington boast a 48% increase in elastin, 14% increase in collagen and a 37% increase in blood circulation in just 20 days after the administration of microcurrent. Additionally, it has the ability to resculpture and lift the face, raising eyebrows as well as relaxing deep set expression lines and filling crow's-feet. Microcurrent also helps products penetrate up to 70% more effectively, allowing an instant effect under the eye and crow's-feet areas, creating a smoother, firmer, wrinkle-free appearance.

Microcurrent toning anti-aging facials average $100, and require a 45-minute booking. Specialty treatments usually can be performed in 10-15 minutes and should be prorated accordingly. Microcurrent treatments are best performed in a series of eight to ten treatments, twice weekly.

Microdermabrasion. The vacuum stimulation alone from, microdermabrasion has been known to stimulate blood circulation and the production of collagen. The assertive removal of the top layer of the skin also instigates new collagen and the regrowth of new, younger-looking skin. Working on furrows and, expression aging can lessen greatly the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, as these areas have a tendency to accumulate thicker layers of skin that increase the visual appearance of aging. Microdermabrasion especially is good for under the eyes and crow's-feet.

Full facial microdermabrasion treatments average $125. Specialty treatments with microdermabrasion literally can be performed in minutes and should be prorated accordingly. Treatments usually are performed in series of:four-to six treatments; approximately one treatment per 10-15 days.

Minimally invasive injectables
Minimally invasive injectables are among the fastest-growing cosmetic trends boasting nearly 4 million procedures during 2003.
The synergy between non-invasive device procedures and minimally invasive injectables is without a doubt fantastic. The relationship between the two is so strong that you would think that they were developed with the other in mind. Furthermore, there are no contraindications known regarding utilizing to the two categories of procedures parallel with one another. In fact is becoming more common to combine both within one visit. Most injectable procedures can be performed within 30-45 minutes and range in cost between $250-1,000. Results are instantaneous and last between 3-9 months.

Anti-aging lifestyle
Aging skin and muscles did not happen overnight or because of one or two bad habits. With this in mind, it is practical to consider that selecting one or two products or treatments from a medical spa menu will not be the cure-all for your aging concerns. Non-invasive device procedures, minimally invasive injectables and a strategic anti-aging skin care regimen should be viewed as a complete anti- aging prescription that equates to a lifestyle.

The esthetician's role
Although the medical practitioner and esthetician traditionally come from opposite sides of the track, more harmony in their goals are being found than ever before. Savvy estheticians understand that non-invasive treatments never will replace the need for traditional plastic surgery, however, they also realize that the youthful appearance of today can be preserved and savored for as long as possible with non-invasive treatments.

The statistics of client demand are clear regarding anti- aging, modality-driven cosmetic procedures. Clients not only want to have the treatments performed, they want them to be performed by estheticians in a more comfortable environment, whether it is a medical spa, traditional spa or skin care clinic. The key is high technology modalities and highly educated estheticians. With this in mind, re-evaluate your current menu and services offered to insure that the scope of your business has a steady focus on the bottom line. High-tech anti-aging services are not only what today's knowledgeable clients are looking for, they consistently provide the highest profit return of any skin care service. It is apparent that estheticians have a place in this industry and are strategically filling a much needed demand.