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PEEL AND HEAL

PeeL and Heal
By Dr Amy Taylor
Dermascope, Oct 04, Pages 43-47

Corrective Skin care using chemicals started in the late 1980’s and microdermabrasion made its debut, in the early 1990’s. Ten to 15 years ago these treatments were untested and there were many critics. Little was known about what kind of side effects or what the long-term results would be. Peels, both mechanical and chemical, were still in their 'baby' stage of trial and development, and like any type of treatment time is always the best judge and teacher in what works and what doesn't. Time has proven to us that both chemical and mechanical peels are here to stay. THEY WORK! Clients see results and that is what keeps our clients happy and coming back.

I personally, have been practicing skin care for over 25 years and have had the privilege of training with many of the industries top leaders and educators. I'm always eager to attend a seminar and expand on what I've learned and then find myself passing that information on to my clients and co-workers. Many years ago I learned about Paradigms. Paradigms are shifts in the way we think ...Bill Gates started a paradigm when he envisioned the average person with a computer; another is when Yahoo introduced the Internet - With our industry it was the introduction of Chemical Peels, Mechanical Peels and AHAs into skin care that started a new paradigm and creating a total new way of treating and working with skin care. Individuals who recognize paradigms and make the "shift" find themselves ahead of the competition and moving forward with great success.

I see clients everyday. I have my hands ON faces ...I hear what clients tell me they want, what they like, what works and what they don't like. Our economy has changed dramatically since 9/11. It's recovering but not the same. Clients want the results they see with the microdermabrasion and chemical peels but they also don't want to give up the relaxation and care and relationship with their aesthetician. So, can they have both? Yes, and better than ever before.

The basics of skin care have always included exfoliation, moisturizing and protection. A classic facial always includes some sort of exfoliation. It may be a papaya mask or enzyme peel or pumpkin (10% lactic) or just a gentle scrub with jojoba beads or crushed apricots seeds. After we exfoliate we do extractions, shape the brows, apply concentrates or serums then massage with a nourishing cream, follow with a mask, apply a finishing moisturizer and sunscreen. These facials provide excellent maintenance and preventive care but what about the more demanding treatments used for hyper pigmentation, acne, fine lines and wrinkles. The client is relaxed and pampered, but where is the correction? For these treatments, more aggressive forms of exfoliants or peeling are used such as microdermabrasion, chemical exfoliants and recently added to the list of exfoliation are ultrasonic dermabrasion.

How does the client get rid of those lines, age-spots, or acne… They go down the street for the correction and back to you for the pampering. So for the last few years, clients been seeking out clinical treatments. Corrective work involves frequent visits and a commitment of time, (usual to eight weeks minimum) and money. Our clients now know what chemical peels and microdermabrasion cost they have seen results. But clients don’t like feeling like a number, they don' t like waiting, they miss the pampering and being spoiled. They spend a lot of money and they get a shorter treatment and it's not usually personal. Another side effect of very aggressive treatments is down time. Many clients have now experienced "down time"... or days of peeling. No one wants a "blue" face for a few days or a red one for that matter. Clients today want anti-aging treatments, they want to see and feel results, but they also want to feel good about who they are.

The New Pardigm- “Peel and Heal”
Every microdermabrasion or chemical peel should contain some of the elements of a spa facial. It should include the application of a serum or concentrate; if you need to do extractions do them, you can massage the skin and finish with a mask, moisturizer and sunscreen. Massage should be a relaxing gentle massage using press and release and light effleurage movements. When you sell a series it should be targeted at the results or goal and build in the necessary variations to achieve that; such as combining microdermabrasion and chemical peels the same day, or alternate the type of peeling treatment; offer a chemical exfoliation one week followed by a microdermabrasion the next.

MICRODERMABRASION
When microdermabrasion first came out there was a lot to learn. What have we learned over time?

That repetitive treatment has a cumulative effect. The skin becomes more resilient, general health and integrity of the skin improves.
That several passes ( covering the same area) at a comfortable setting can be just as effective or more effective than a stetting that's so high it leaves marks and clients hold on for dear life.
Passes should be structured, use a specific pattern so you know exactly where you have been and how many times. Zig-zag, criss-cross patterns or holding over an area should be used last for problem areas.
A light lifting (suction) of the skin as you slide your pass will give you better results
The slower you slide your pass the more intense it will be, faster the less intense, this can help where you know you want greater results or areas that may be more sensitive
Visits can be as close together as 7-10 days.
Applying concentrates such as ampoules or serums immediately following microdermabrasion helps to rehydrate the skin and delivery systems like liposomes and nanosomes help deliver active ingredients deep into the skin to support cellular regeneration.
Extractions can be done after all crystals have been removed.
Safe for ALL skin types -microdermabrasion is well tolerated by all skin types when used as directed for he appropriate skin types.

CHEMICAL PEELS
Chemical peels can be added to microdermabrasion treatments several ways, very light low percentages can help increase the exfoliation processes, but still give very minimal down time when they leave. Chemical peels offer you a deeper type of treatment for correcting skin problems. Chemicals such as salicylic acid have a very beneficial result on acne or problem skin. The combination of salicylic and microdermabrasion will help the improvement of problem skin faster than using only one method. Deeper lines and wrinkles need deeper treatment and a glycolic will help stimulate below the surface while the micro gives immediate improvement on the surface and will help prepare the skin to receive concentrate and other regenerative treatments. Take some time to analyze the cost of your peel products you might be surprised at how little they can cost. Do you really use the 1 Tbls of product as recommended for a treatment? With a glycolic I use about 1 tsp and with the prepping solution it cost per treatment $1.20, so do I really need to tack on $30 more dollars to an already high-end service? Or can I build this option into my price. It is often difficult for some aestheticians to explain charges and why at the same time they are doing the service and clients are here to relax not be nickeled and dimed for every little thing. Another simple tip with exfoliating products...you can change what you use to prep the skin with before a microderm and bump up the results. I use an "astringent" that has a 5% or 10% salicylic acid to treat the skin. On skins of color this can be as affective as a peel and works great for those break outs caused by ingrown hairs (same principle as the after waxing products). Mine costs 10 cents and the results, priceless. Working with chemical peels of any kind is advanced aesthetic work and learning which peels for what skin types, what the reactions or problems can be, how long or how many layers requires training and studying on your part. Chemical peels or exfoliates will give you the best results or your worse nightmare!

CONCENTRATES OR HEALING
Incorporating concentrates that contain regenerative or powerful antioxidants into every microderm or chemical peel treatment can help your clients heal and recover faster. Concentrates can be found in serums or ampoules and usually contain higher percentages of active ingredients and sometimes a delivery system like liposome or nanosomes that will transport the ingredient deeper into the skin. (Liposomes or nanosomes are sphere like bubbles that contain active substances.) Also effective are essential oil blends. Formulas containing essential oils that are regenerative or hydrating such as Rosewood, Carrot, or Niaouli, ( add 3 to 5 drops of a blend into your massage cream) can boost the effects of your massage. Explaining how you blend this to your client makes it an easy home care item to sell. Years ago I remember reading not to use aromatherapy" products following a microdermabrasion because it might cause an allergic reaction. Taking a proper intake form before corrective work is VERY important. What is an allergic reaction? An allergic reaction is when a person has an allergy to a substance or ingredient. If you have an allergy to an ingredient you have it whether you get a microdermabrasion or not. If you react to peanut oil and get hives you will react whether you use it with or without a microdermabrasion. If you are allergic to chamomile, you will react whenever it is used in a facial or after a microdermabrasion. But essentials oils that hydrate, soothe and have regenerative properties are excellent after peels.

PEEL AND HEAL
An important change today is that we are returning to what aestheticians were all about in the beginning...we provide a caring, nourishing environment that helps a client feel better about themselves and now we can dramatically affect the way they look. Time is money but today we also look for value. Wal-Mart changed the way we shop and the way wholesalers do business. Providing the best value for the best price will give you an edge over any competition. So let's re-think the microdermabrasion menu. Can you offer a mini, standard, or ultra treatment? A mini microderm can be just a few passes ( 1- 3) a light treatment and easy to add to an existing facial, just substitute it for the steam/exfoliation service and add xx dollars. Your ultra can be an extended time...1- hour facial, include extras like a hand facial treatment, eye lifting treatment a specialty peel off mask. But your standard microdermabrasion, the one you will sell and do over and over, should include four to six passes, a concentrate, a light massage, hydrating gel mask and eye mask, finishing moisturizer and SPF protection. While the mask is on, I massage the neck and shoulders with hot stones and then lay them under the shoulder and do a gentle hand massage. Can you afford to do this? What are the real costs? I see many aestheticians caught up in how expensive the microdermabrasion machine is, and the good workhorses are. But if you have had your machine for more than four years, even if it has been sitting in the comer, your accountant or CPA has probably depreciated it and has a value of zero. Your real cost is the cost of the crystals per use and your time. Take the time to compute out how much it costs to use that dime size of eye mask, 50 cents? Does the client feel and appreciate the attention, if so that detail could separate you from the competition? Using hot stones to massage the shoulders cost you nothing and I can promise you those clients will remember and talk about it. And most important of all is seeing results!

When you can include microdermabrasion or mini-peels into every facial your clients will instantly see and feel a difference. Adding a pre-treatment under your microdermabrasion may only cost you dimes, but again the results will be dramatic. This helps to establish a loyal and excited client. And loyal excited clients will make your business strong and guarantee solid growth. Peels are here to stay. Learn what they can do, how to use them safely and you and your clients will reap the benefits.